The Thrill Is in the Search
Days begin early, heading into Ladakh’s valleys with experienced guides, local spotters, binoculars and spotting scopes.
At first, the landscape can seem almost empty. There are vast slopes of rock and snow, distant ridges and deep valleys stretching towards the horizon. Then, slowly, you begin to notice what is happening around you.
A golden eagle might circle overhead. A red fox could cross the valley floor. Tracks in the snow show where wildlife passed during the night. Groups of blue sheep, also known as bharal, move across steep mountainsides that look almost impossible to navigate.
And somewhere among those rocks could be a snow leopard.
One of the most fascinating parts of the experience is learning how expert spotters read the landscape. Snow leopards are incredibly well camouflaged, so finding one is often about noticing the clues around it. The behaviour of blue sheep can be particularly important. If a group suddenly stops feeding and starts staring towards the same ridge, the guides know where to concentrate their search.
Even after they point towards the exact place, it can take several minutes before the animal takes shape among the rocks.
At first, the mountains look empty. Then you learn how to look.
(image from Travel Counsellor JP Griffin)