We flew with Turkish Airlines from Dublin via Istanbul, which made the journey feel very manageable: a shorter flight first, then a longer sector into Hanoi, landing mid‑afternoon. We checked into the iconic Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, an elegant oasis in the French Quarter.

Hanoi : Old streets, French charm and street food

The next morning we headed off in open‑air old army jeeps for a tour of the Old Quarter, stopping at local markets and street food stalls. The absolute highlight was Train Street, a narrow residential lane where the Hanoi–Saigon train thunders past just inches from front doors and cafés. At the first blast of the whistle, locals whisk tables and stools off the tracks and everyone stands back against the wall. You could almost touch the train as it passes (though I would not recommend trying!). The tour ended at the Hidden Gem Café, a quirky eco café filled with furniture and décor made from recycled materials.

Of course, travel rarely goes entirely to plan. Typhoon Bualoi swept in, cancelling Halong Bay cruises for two days and bringing heavy rain to Hanoi. This is where having a trusted local partner is worth its weight in gold: they stepped in and re‑jigged our itinerary so that we got to Ninh Binh, or “Halong Bay on land”, instead. We visited ancient temples, climbed the 500 stone steps at Mua Cave for spectacular views over the Tam Coc valley and its patchwork of rice fields, and took a peaceful sampan ride along the Ngo Dong River through limestone caves and emerald paddies. Quiet, rural and so beautiful.

Mai Chau: Mountains, rice terraces and a “cloud” pool

Once the conference ended, the rest of the group left and we headed to Avana Retreat, a four‑and‑a‑half‑hour drive from Hanoi and roughly 25 km from the ethnic village of Mai Chau. The journey there is part of the experience: winding roads, rice terraces, forests, waterfalls and tiny villages clinging to the hillsides.

Avana Retreat is a luxurious hideaway that manages to feel both high end and completely in tune with its surroundings. The accommodation is stylish and serene, the food excellent, but the show‑stopper for me was the three‑tier heated infinity “cloud” pool. With panoramic views over the valley and hills, it feels like you are swimming in the sky.

We hired a local guide and spent time walking through nearby villages, meeting ethnic minority communities and seeing traditional stilt houses. It was a gentle, grounding experience and a lovely contrast to the bustle of Hanoi.

Halong Bay: a 5 star night on the water

The weather improved, Halong Bay opened up again and our local partner secured a booking for us on the Bhaya Soul, a five‑star luxury ship with beautifully designed cabins, lots of deck space and superb service. Halong Bay totally exceeded my expectations: the scenery was magnificent and we spent a wonderful couple of hours sailing past floating villages. The sunset was spectacular. 

Hoi An: Lanterns, tailors and the beach

Next up was central Vietnam. We flew to Danang and transferred to Hoi An. We stayed at Siesta Hoi An, a charming boutique‑style hotel that combines traditional Vietnamese touches with modern comforts. It was just a short walk into the Old Town and they provided a shuttle bus to the beach.

We headed into town that evening and it was buzzing. The riverfront was full of market stalls, tiny bars, cafés and restaurants, and the colourful overhead lanterns were all lit. Hoi An is also famous for its tailors, and it absolutely lives up to its reputation. There were hundreds of tailoring shops in the Old Town and we had great fun choosing patterns and fabrics and being measured. We returned the following morning for fittings and collected the finished articles that evening.

When we were not being measured up, we spent time on the nearby beach, a long stretch of sand with great waves and laid‑back beach bars. It was the perfect blend of culture, shopping and relaxation.

Saigon & the Mekong: modern energy and river life

Our final chapter took us south to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), and it was a revelation. Sleek skyscrapers, designer shops and rooftop bars sit alongside traditional markets and historic sites. The city felt so sophisticated and cosmopolitan.

A real standout was the street food tour by Vespa. We were picked up from the hotel and transported on the back of a Vespa to one of the city’s many rooftop bars where we met the rest of the group. The view from the bar was spectacular and after a welcome drink, we headed off to sample some of the local eateries. The Vespa ride was so exciting: we travelled down some of the main roads as well as very narrow alleys full of local life, and at all times we were surrounded by hundreds of other motorbikes. The food at the two restaurants we visited was simply delicious and we finished the night at a trendy live music bar. All in all, a fantastic evening’s entertainment.

By contrast, our visit the following day to the War Remnants Museum and the Cu Chi Tunnels was sobering and thought‑provoking, offering an important perspective on Vietnam’s recent history. Travelling to Cu Chi by speedboat rather than coach proved an excellent decision: cooler, faster and far more scenic along the river.

To round off the trip, we spent an overnight on the Mekong Delta. Accommodation here was simple but comfortable, and the luxury came in the form of experience: drifting along wide and narrow waterways, visiting small local industries such as coconut candy and rice paper workshops, and watching riverside life unfold. Children waving from the banks, boats piled high with produce, tiny homes on stilts: it felt like stepping into a different rhythm of life.

I loved Vietnam even more second time round.  There is something for everyone here from the busy cities of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City to the quiet rural beauty of Mai Chau, Ninh Binh and the Mekong Delta,  the spectacular scenery on Halong Bay and the charming, atmospheric town of Hoi An.  If you are thinking about visiting Vietnam for the first time, or going back to see more, I can honestly say it is well worth the journey. I would be very happy to share more tips and help you plan a trip that suits you, whether you want culture, beaches, food, adventure or a bit of everything.

If Vietnam is on your mind, get in touch and let us start planning your own special journey.