Gorilla trekking in Rwanda

As the morning sunshine began to burn off the mist that surrounded the volcanic landscape in front of us we waited in great anticipation for our morning hike that could very well turn in to a full day hike. It was hard to know how long we would need to trek to achieve our objective so we were prepared for a long day just in case.

 It was a gentle start as we began to wind our way up the mountain slopes through the patchwork  of farmers fields that lay between us and our destination, the farmers didn't bat an eyelid. They're used to trekkers traversing their fields, they know where we're going. As we made our way up getting ever steeper we eventually came to a low stone wall, the metaphorical line in the sand that told the locals that they may cultivate no further! This was the boundary to the national park, what lay ahead is one of the last small islands of sanctuary, the natural habitat of one of our closest cousins.

The landscape immediately changed from carefully cultivated fields to tropical mountain rainforest. We trekked for just over an hour, carefully winding our way up the forested slope while taking in the intoxicating sights and sounds of the enveloping jungle until eventually we reached a forested plateau, a little relief for our weary legs!

 After a quick water break we trekked for another 10 minutes through the dense ancient forest when suddenly our guide was joined by another couple of park rangers. After a brief conversation our guide turned to us and instructed us to drop our backpacks, from this point just carry water and your camera. Stay close to the guide and stay quiet.

We followed him out in to a clearing and as we left the treeline suddenly there was a baby gorilla staring at me as it clung to it's mother's back. The baby yawned, clearly this encounter with it's cousin was less exciting for the gorilla as it was for me.

I looked around at my travelling companions, every one of us was spellbound, grinning from ear to ear. This was a day that I dreamed about for years ever since I saw that image of David Attenborough practically being adopted by a gorilla family. Who can blame them for wanting to keep the best of us?

 None of this would be possible, not even Attenborough's famous encounter, had it not been for the pioneering work of Dian Fossey in the late 60's who committed her life to their study which shattered the long held belief that the greatest of primates was a terrifying beast. Quite to the contrary gorillas are incredibly good natured and gentle which is something that we witness first hand. Dian's life would end in tragedy but her legacy endures, without her work and the ecotourism that has grown because of it, this species of gorilla would likely be extinct.

We spend an hour with them which is the maximum time allowed so as to limit our impact on them. We observe them, they observe us but pay little attention. We watch them play with the infants, we watch them feed, we watch them groom each other, I'm fascinated by the dexterity with which they do so, their gentle nature belying their raw strength.

Suddenly the alpha male, a giant silverback gets up and starts walking in my direction. As I try to focus my camera lens on him through the undergrowth I realise that I need to get out of the way. He glides serenely past me and strides towards a younger silverback whom he gently reminds to stay in his lane. A simple look is all that it took, a reminder of who's the boss!

Before we know it our hour is over and we must leave. This is strictly enforced and rightly so, we must protect this species at all costs.

 Would you like a close encounter with one of our closest cousins? Contact me and we'll get you there!