Kerala: Tea Hills, Backwaters and Beaches on My First Trip to India

First stop: Atmospheric Fort Kochi

We began in Kochi, where our guide, Jhairaj, and Sudeep from TBI welcomed us and shared their local knowledge throughout.

Our base for two nights was Brunton Boatyard, set right on the waterfront in historic Fort Kochi. It is full of character and ideally located for wandering straight into the old quarter.

After breakfast at the hotel (including a memorable pistachio loaf) we walked along the promenade to see the famous Chinese fishing nets and watch trawlers bringing in their catch. Fresh fish is sold straight from the boats, and the harbour buzzes with life.

We explored the colonial quarter on foot and by tuk tuk, passing heritage buildings and browsing the boutiques on Princess Street. A visit to a traditional laundry was fascinating: washing, drying and pressing are still done entirely by hand, and one of the heated irons weighed an incredible 9 kg.

In Jew Town we browsed colourful shops and visited the historic Paradesi Synagogue. Fort Kochi was once a major spice-trading port, and you really feel the layers of Portuguese, Dutch and British influence. Colonial streets now sit beside a busy modern harbour with container ships gliding past, a striking contrast between old and new. A stop at the Royal Palace rounded off our introduction to South India’s trading history.

It was a gentle, story-filled way to ease into India, and ideal for clients who like culture at a relaxed pace.

Into the hills: Windermere Estate and Munnar

Leaving the coast behind, we drove inland and Kerala revealed a completely different personality.

One highlight was Windermere River House, part of the Windermere Estate. Reached by jeep, it is tucked beside the river, wrapped in tropical gardens. We stopped for lunch here and instantly felt the tempo slow: a peaceful interlude between busy sightseeing days.

We continued up into the Western Ghats to spend two nights at Windermere Estate itself. The drive was beautiful: winding roads, waterfalls, tuk tuks converted into fruit and veg stalls, and monkeys appearing along the roadside.

Set at around 5,000 feet, Windermere Estate feels like a true plantation retreat. Family owned and run, it has just 18 rooms set along a cliff top, looking out over sweeping valleys. The air is cooler, the views are endless and it genuinely feels like an escape.

We woke early for sunrise over the hills, followed by a guided bird and nature walk. Later we visited the nearby Lockhart tea factory to see tea production, passing through vivid green plantations on the way. In Munnar we wandered around the market stalls, with giant sacks of chillies and garlic that had me in foodie heaven.

Being on the ground here really matters. The sights, smells and colours of Munnar are impossible to capture in photos. The fresh produce, herbs and spices, tea plantations and local markets all come together to create an atmosphere you have to experience for yourself, and it has transformed how I will talk about Kerala to my clients.

Periyar: Spice plantations and tiger country

From Munnar we travelled east to Periyar, still within the Western Ghats but with a distinctly different feel. As we dropped down from the higher hills, tea plantations gradually gave way to spice plantations, and the landscape shifted again.

One of the standout experiences was an early morning walk in Periyar Tiger Reserve. Leech socks are a must, but it was a brilliant outing. We did not see a tiger, but we did find a footprint estimated to be about a week old, a reminder that they are very much present.

Walking through the reserve with a local guide, listening to the forest wake up and looking for subtle signs of wildlife felt immersive and special. For nature lovers, this is something I would absolutely recommend including in a Kerala itinerary.

We also visited a spice plantation and enjoyed a fascinating tour with the owner, who explained how different spices, including cardamom, are grown and harvested. As a spice fan, I was in my element.

Our base here was CGH Spice Village in Kumily. It has a lovely, rustic-chic feel and the locals are incredibly welcoming. Monkeys roam the grounds and are very entertaining, if occasionally cheeky. It is a great option for clients who like the idea of being close to the reserve while still having comfort and character.

Serenity on the backwaters: Coconut Lagoon and Lake Vembanad

Next we travelled down to the backwaters, to Kumarakom on the shores of Lake Vembanad. Here we stayed at CGH Earth Coconut Lagoon, looking straight out over Kerala’s largest lake.

The setting is beautiful: water, palms and vibrant greenery everywhere. The property itself is full of charm, right down to the small cows who help with lawn mowing and milk production. Despite the colour and activity, the overall atmosphere is incredibly calm.

We explored the backwaters by small boat, gliding along narrow waterways where the strips of land are often just one house wide, with rice fields on the other side. Life unfolds gently here: fishermen at work, children splashing in the water, women washing clothes on the steps.

We only had one night at Coconut Lagoon, but our departure was unforgettable. We left by houseboat, crossing the lake and then cruising along the backwaters. Houseboats can be used for day cruises or overnight stays and they offer a wonderfully relaxed way to watch local life and birdlife slip by.

This area is one of the most magical places I have visited. For me, it captures the essence of Kerala: serene, vivid and full of small, human moments.

Finishing by the sea: Marari Beach

We ended with two nights at Marari Beach on the shores of the Arabian Sea. After hills, forests and backwaters, reaching the coast felt like the final piece of the puzzle.

Days here are made for walking along the sand, swimming in the sea and watching the sun set over the ocean. It is the perfect place to slow down before flying home, and works brilliantly as a relaxing end to a multi‑centre Kerala trip.

Why Kerala works so beautifully as a holiday

What struck me most is how much variety you can fit into one itinerary, often with relatively short journeys between each stop. In a single trip you can enjoy:

• Historic harbour towns like Fort Kochi
• Cool tea hills and plantation stays around Munnar
• Wildlife and spice country in Periyar
• The tranquil backwaters of Lake Vembanad
• A laid‑back beach finale at Marari

Combine that with delicious food, warm hospitality, knowledgeable local guides and the chance to travel by jeep, boat and on foot, and you have a destination that feels rich and multi-layered without being overwhelming.

For my first experience of India, Kerala was ideal. It is somewhere I now feel confident recommending to couples, foodies, culture lovers, gentle adventurers and anyone looking for a softer, more laid‑back introduction to the country.

If you are tempted by your own Kerala adventure, from Fort Kochi’s harbourfront to the tea hills, Periyar’s forests, the backwaters and the beach, I would love to create a tailor‑made itinerary just for you.

Contact me to start planning your Kerala journey.