Sailing Norway’s Soul: My Hurtigruten Coastal Express Journey from Kirkenes to Bergen
Day 1 – May 12 | Kirkenes Departure: Edge of the World Kirkenes sits closer to Russia than to Oslo—a remote, snow-dusted town that marks the northernmost point of the Hurtigruten voyage. I boarded the ship in the late afternoon, greeted by crisp Arctic air and a warm crew. As the vessel pulled away from the quay, a quiet stillness fell over the fjord. The midnight sun had already started its annual watch, bathing everything in a surreal golden hue. This wasn’t just a trip. It was an unfolding story—chapter one. Day 2 – May 13 | Hammerfest & Tromsø: Arctic Rhythms Our course threaded through tiny fishing villages and wide stretches of open sea. We made a brief stop in Hammerfest, one of the world’s northernmost towns, before continuing toward Tromsø—often called the Arctic capital.
Tromsø gave us just enough time to soak up some atmosphere. We ducked into a cosy pub near the harbour and enjoyed a well-earned beer, surrounded by locals and fellow travellers. There’s something special about raising a glass in a place where the sun barely sets this time of year.
Back onboard, I tucked into fresh Arctic char in the dining room and watched the coastline drift by. With each stop, Norway’s north unfolded a little more.
Day 3 – May 14 | Lofoten Islands: Norway’s Crown Jewels This day was, without question, a highlight. The approach to the Lofoten archipelago was nothing short of magical. Snow-capped peaks rise straight out of the sea, jagged and bold. Our ship navigated the narrow Raftsund strait and made a special detour into Trollfjord—a steep-sided fjord that feels almost too tight for a ship to enter. Everyone was out on deck, hushed and awed. A landscape painter would run out of blues and greens trying to capture it. In Svolvær, I wandered past rows of rorbuer—traditional red fisherman’s cabins—and imagined life in winter. The beauty here is raw and dramatic, almost cinematic. Day 4 – May 15 | Arctic Circle Crossing & Bodø: Southbound Shift We crossed the Arctic Circle during the morning, marked by a quirky Hurtigruten tradition: every passenger was given a spoonful of cod liver oil. It’s a rite of passage on this voyage—equal parts historic nod and playful ceremony. Some of us took it bravely, others grimaced, but everyone laughed. As we sailed south, the rugged, untamed Arctic coastline began to mellow slightly. In Bodø, I had time for a short walk and some coffee while soaking in views of sea meeting snow-dusted peaks. Back onboard, we settled into our evening rhythm—panoramic views, good food, and the soft hum of the ship gliding through water. Day 5 – May 16 | Trondheim & Coastal Calm Trondheim was our largest port of call and a welcome contrast of history and liveliness. I visited the majestic Nidaros Cathedral, then strolled along the cobbled streets of Bakklandet, where colourful wooden houses overlook the river. By now, a peaceful routine had set in—quiet mornings, fjord-dotted afternoons, and golden-hour evenings from the observation lounge or deck. There was also a growing sense of anticipation onboard, as we neared Bergen and Norway’s National Day. Day 6 – May 17 | Bergen Arrival & Syttende Mai Celebrations We arrived in Bergen on May 17th, Syttende Mai—Norway’s Constitution Day. What a way to end the journey! The city was alive with celebration: children in bunads, music filling the streets, flags everywhere. It felt like all of Norway was smiling. Disembarking into the heart of the festivities was unforgettable. Bergen was showing off its best—blue skies, buzzing streets, and that classic postcard view of the Bryggen wharf. I lingered a little longer before heading to my hotel, not quite ready to let go of the sea. Final Thoughts Traveling the Norwegian coast with Hurtigruten is unlike anything else. It’s not just scenic—it’s soulful. From the icy stillness of Kirkenes to the lively streets of Bergen, this journey showed me the pulse of coastal Norway. The fjords, the fishing villages, the changing light—they don’t just pass by your window. They stay with you.
If you’re seeking a journey that moves slower, deeper, and richer, the Coastal Express southbound is waiting.
