Discovering Alentejo: Portugal’s Quiet Soul
Fam Trip to Alentejo
Portugal is full of headline destinations, but it was in Alentejo, far from the crowds, that I really felt the country’s quiet soul. In October I joined a Travel Counsellors FAM trip exploring this rural region: a landscape of rolling vineyards, cork oak forests, whitewashed hilltop villages and starlit skies. I flew into Faro from Dublin a couple of days early, easing in with seafood suppers in Olhão and a barefoot morning on Armona Island, before heading north into the heart of Alentejo. What I found was a slower, more authentic Portugal, where lunches linger, wine flows and time seems to stretch. In this blog I am sharing the highlights of that journey: coastal walks on the Fishermen’s Trail, characterful rural hotels, family-owned wine estates, dark-sky stargazing and the historic towns that give Alentejo its depth and charm.
I flew from Dublin into Faro a couple of days early and based myself in Olhão, a charming fishing town on the Algarve coast. It was the perfect soft landing: slow mornings along the waterfront, seafood straight from the market and a ferry over to Armona Island for a beach walk and coffee by the sand. Then it was time to head north into a very different, quieter Portugal: Alentejo.
Wild Coast & Fishermen’s Trails
Our official programme began with arrival into Faro Airport , then a drive up the wild Atlantic coast to Zambujeira do Mar. Traffic thins quickly and the scenery becomes dramatic cliffs, scrubland and small clusters of white houses.
We stopped at Herdade do Touril for lunch and a show-round. This rural retreat, close to the ocean, feels like a stylish hideaway with a strong sense of place: low-rise buildings, local materials and a relaxed, intimate atmosphere that is ideal for couples or small groups.
In the afternoon we walked a short section of the Rota Vicentina Fishermen’s Trail (around 3–4 km). Following old fishermen’s paths along the cliff tops, you get endless sea views, ochre cliffs and tiny coves far below. For active clients who enjoy gentle hikes in stunning scenery, this is a real highlight.
That evening we continued inland to São Teotónio and checked into Craveiral Farmhouse. Surrounded by fields and trees, it combines contemporary design with a barefoot, countryside feel. After a full day, dinner at the hotel showcased exactly what Alentejo does best: simple, high-quality ingredients, local olive oil and excellent regional wine.
Wine Estates, White Villages & Dark Skies
Day two took us deeper into Alentejo’s wine country. We drove through a landscape of vines and cork oaks to Herdade da Malhadinha Nova, a beautiful wine estate where we toured the vineyards, enjoyed a tasting and lingered over a generous lunch. This is the kind of place I would happily recommend for a special occasion: elegant suites, serious food and wine, but still rooted in the countryside.
In the afternoon we visited Quinta do Paral near Vidigueira, a more intimate winery that gave us another perspective on Alentejo’s wine scene. For wine lovers, combining a couple of contrasting estates like this makes for a wonderful few days.
Later we continued to Monsaraz, one of the most picturesque hilltop villages in Portugal. Enclosed by medieval walls and overlooking the vast Alqueva Lake, it is all cobbled lanes, whitewashed houses and flowerpots on doorsteps. As the late-afternoon light softened, Monsaraz felt almost timeless.
We stayed that night at Herdade dos Delgados, a contemporary lakeside hotel. After dinner we were treated to stargazing and an astronomy session, taking advantage of the Alqueva Dark Sky Reserve. With virtually no light pollution, the Milky Way is clearly visible and the night sky feels incredibly close, making this a magical experience for romantics, photographers and families alike.
Life On The Lake &Historic Beja
The next morning began with a working session at Herdade dos Delgados with Alentejo suppliers, which was invaluable for understanding just how varied the region is: from boutique rural hotels to activity providers and cultural experiences.
Around lunchtime we boarded a boat on Alqueva Lake, with a light lunch served after and plenty of time to enjoy the stillness and open views. A private or small-group cruise here would be a lovely addition to any itinerary, especially at sunset.
In the afternoon we travelled to Beja, a historic town with Roman and Moorish influences. Our guide, Nuno Teixeira, met us at the castle and brought the streets and stories of Beja to life. For culture and history lovers, a guided walk here adds real depth to a rural Alentejo stay.
That evening we checked into Vila Galé Monte do Vilar in the countryside near Beja and enjoyed dinner at the hotel: another comfortable rural base, surrounded by nature.
Why Recommend Alentejo?
This FAM trip confirmed that Alentejo is perfect for those who:
- Prefer authentic, less touristy regions over busy resorts
- Love food and wine and enjoy long lunches with a view
- Appreciate walking, nature and big, open countryside
- Favour small, characterful hotels and rural estates
- Are drawn to stargazing, history and local culture
Pairing a couple of nights in Olhão and Armona with a few days in rural Alentejo works beautifully. It gives clients a mix of coastal charm and pure countryside calm, with easy access via Faro from Dublin and Cork.
If you are curious about discovering a quieter, more soulful side of Portugal, Alentejo deserves a place on your shortlist.
