India was Captivating

In September I was invited on a work trip to India. After 39 years in the travel industry, I still have to pinch myself when opportunities like this come along. India has always fascinated me, but I will be honest: I had the same preconceptions many people do. I had heard about the poverty, the noise and the smells, and for a long time that made me hesitant. Yet I also dreamed of seeing the iconic Taj Mahal with my own eyes. So I went with an open mind, and what I discovered has firmly placed India on my “must return” list. It is one of the most extraordinary places I have visited in almost four decades of travelling, and it has genuinely left its mark on my heart. If, like me, those preconceptions have put you off in the past, this is why India now needs to be on your bucket list.

Our journey began in Old Delhi, where India hits every sense at once in the most unforgettable way. Narrow lanes criss-cross the old city, lined with spice stalls, tiny food vendors and sari shops spilling over with colour. The air is full of the scent of cumin, cardamom and incense, the sound of horns and chatter, and a constant swirl of people going about their day. We explored by rickshaw, a thrilling ride through the bustle and chaos that felt noisy, colourful and utterly captivating. It was a real glimpse into daily life that felt a million miles from home, and the perfect introduction to the country.

From Delhi we drove to Agra, home to India’s most famous monument and perhaps the world’s greatest symbol of love: the Taj Mahal. No photograph can prepare you for the moment you first see it in person. We visited at sunrise, when the crowds are fewer and the light is soft and pearly. The white marble glowed as the first light of day touched it, its reflection perfectly mirrored in the long pools that lead up to its steps. Knowing the story behind it, a mausoleum built out of grief and devotion and handcrafted by thousands of artisans, makes it even more moving. Standing there in the quiet of the early morning, with the mist gently lifting and the dome turning from pale grey to blush pink, is an experience that will never leave me, a love story carved forever in stone.

Leaving the cities behind, we then drove through the countryside towards Ranthambore, where the rhythm of India changes from car horns to birdsong and the rustle of the jungle. Ranthambore National Park was once the hunting ground of maharajahs but today it is a protected haven for wildlife. The ruins of old palaces and temples sit quietly among lakes and forests, and the park is home to deer, monkeys, vibrant birdlife, crocodiles and of course the famous Bengal tiger. Our alarms were set for 4 am for our game drives. Wrapped up against the morning chill, we set out in open jeeps as the sun rose, watching the forest slowly wake up around us. Despite the best efforts of our driver and guide, we were not lucky enough to spot a tiger this time, but one of our group did see a leopard, and the thrill of knowing these magnificent creatures are there, moving somewhere just beyond the trees, is indescribable. Even without a tiger sighting, the wildlife was immense and the atmosphere magical, a beautiful counterpoint to the energy of the cities.

From Ranthambore we continued to Jaipur, capital of Rajasthan and my favourite city of the entire itinerary. Jaipur is known as the Pink City, and it wears that nickname beautifully; even the tuk tuks are pink. We hopped into one and whizzed through the streets, enjoying that joyful, slightly chaotic experience that only a tuk tuk can provide. We stopped at the Hawa Mahal, its honeycomb of windows looking over the old city, then continued on to the majestic Amber Fort, set high on a hill with sweeping views below. Jaipur’s City Palace was another highlight, with its courtyards, frescoes and doorways that are as exquisite as fine jewellery, every corner seemingly designed to be admired. By evening the city takes on a softer glow as lights twinkle across rooftop restaurants, the scent of sandalwood and incense drifts through the air and the sounds of the day mellow into something gentler. It is a city that feels both royal and intimate, and I fell a little bit in love with it.

At the end of our journey we returned to Old Delhi, but this time it felt very different. What had first seemed chaotic and overwhelming now felt like part of a bigger story. The call to prayer echoing between old buildings, the swirl of colour in the bazaars and the endless movement and life in the streets all became part of a wider tapestry of experiences that made sense once stitched together. One of my most emotional moments was simply looking up at the night sky. Children were flying kites high above the crumbling rooftops, silhouetted against the evening light, in a city that is both colonial and contemporary, fragile and resilient. To my surprise, I found myself with tears in my eyes, a literal, physical reaction to how deeply this country had touched my soul.

This itinerary is far more than a list of famous sights. It is an immersion in history and heritage, in wildlife and wilderness, in street life and royal splendour, in colour, flavour and genuine human warmth. For clients who are curious about India but perhaps a little nervous, this route through Old Delhi, Agra, Ranthambore and Jaipur offers India at its most vivid yet still very accessible. From the serenity of the Taj Mahal at dawn to the adrenaline of a tiger safari and the joyful chaos of tuk tuks and rickshaws, this trip has left me with treasured memories and a powerful desire to return and experience more of this remarkable country: its people, its food, its culture and its spirit. If India has ever been on your mind but you have worried about what it might be like, I can say with complete honesty that it is worth every moment. It may challenge you, but it will also move you and reward you in ways that stay with you long after you have flown home.