Canada revisited
We flew into Vancouver and spent the first 4 nights there. We did all the ‘touristy’ things I had done last year - Grouse Mountain, Capilano Suspension Bridge, Flyover Canada and Granville Island. We also enjoyed the 10km walk around Stanley Park and visited the beautiful beach suburbs of Kitsilano and Jericho. We didn’t need a car here as local transport was so efficient and reasonable. There was also a regular free shuttle to both Grouse Mountain and Capilano.
I was so excited for the next part of the holiday on Vancouver Island. We picked up the car early in the morning and made the 40-minute drive to Tsassawen from where the ferry sailed to Swartz Bay, which is about 30 minutes’ drive from Victoria, the capital of British Columbia. By the time we arrived, I was thankfully familiar with the left-hand drive automatic - phew!!
We spent just the one night in Victoria - a very ‘pretty’ city - spotlessly clean with beautiful buildings and gardens and a gorgeous Harbour area. It was very small but had lots of fabulous restaurants and bars to choose from as well as a great buzz. After our brief stopover in Victoria we headed to Ucluelet on the West Coast. We spent 3 nights here and soaked up the amazing views. The Wild Pacific Trail went through our fabulous accommodation at the Blackrock Oceanfront Resort and although the drive from Victoria was longer than expected - over 5 hours, the scenery from Nanaimo was gorgeous. Ucluelet is a tiny town with just a few shops and a handful of restaurants and try as we did, we could not find the one and only pub!
The day after we arrived, we walked the Wild Pacific Trail and yes it was wild, but I could not stop taking photos. The scenery was stunning. The weather dipped the following day and we just did a short walk on another of the local trails and in the afternoon, headed to Tofino which is about 30km from Ucluelet. There was a lot more going on here than in Ucluelet - lots of cafes and restaurants and lots more accommodation options. The entire area is really geared to the outdoor life – picturesque walking trails and great surfing. The beaches between the 2 towns were fabulous with some high-end lodges available directly on the beach. We paid a quick visit to the Relais & Chateau ‘Wickanninish Inn’ and it did not disappoint!
After a 3-hour drive back to Nanaimo, we took the ferry to Horseshoe Bay which is north of Vancouver and in a little over an hour, arrived into Whistler, home to the Winter Olympics of 2010. This town reminded me of Queenstown in New Zealand - purpose built for the skiers and other winter sports enthusiasts and in the summer, it also caters to hikers and mountain bike riders. There were loads of bars and restaurants but as Kevin told us, prices were far higher than in Vancouver. We took the gondola to the top of Whistler Mountain and then crossed to the top of Blackcomb Mountain, the highest in the area standing at 2436m, over twice the height of Carrauntoohil. For hikers, there are some fabulous walks close by but a popular one is in the Joffre Lakes Provincial Park which is situated approximately 1 hours’ drive north of Whistler.
After Whistler it was time to head to the Rockies. We split the journey over 2 days and overnighted in Clearwater, 5 ½ hours from Whistler and 3 ½ from Jasper. We took our time soaking in the scenery and making lots of photo stops. There was not a lot happening in Clearwater. It is the gateway to the Wells Gray Provincial Park, but time was of the essence and the Rockies were calling. The journey onto Jasper was fabulous and we stopped at Mt Robson for amazing views and a walk up to the lake. From there it was an hour to Jasper, a small alpine resort surrounded by majestic mountains and lakes.
I covered much of this area in my blog last year ‘The Rocky Mountaineer Rocks’ and although we were self-driving this year, we more or less visited the same places. There are a few points to note however when self-driving: You need to buy a pass for the Jasper and Banff National Parks. You pay on entering and tell them the number of days you will be spending between the 2 areas. The cost is approx. CAD$20 per day and you receive a sticker which you attach to the windscreen of your car.
Some of the lakes become extremely crowded, particularly in high season and you cannot park near them. First on this list is the iconic Lake Louise which is pictured in almost every brochure of the Rockies. For those arriving during the day, you will need to park well away from the town, and they operate a park and ride system to and from the lake. The alternative is to get up early and visit at around 6-7am. The situation is similar at the other lakes in this area – Moraine Lake and Emerald Lake and at the stunning Lake Maligne which is situated close to Jasper.
We both vowed that we would return to the Rockies and explore some more of their wonderful walking trails. Calgary is just a direct 8 ½ hour flight from Dublin, roads are fantastic and once you get used to driving an automatic car on the right-hand side of the road, you will be flying! My two trips were in May and June when there was still quite a bit of snow on the ground (particularly in May). Some of my colleagues visited at the start of October last year and their photographs are full of fabulous Autumn colours.
So, whether you are interested in winter or summer sports, the Rockies is a great mid haul, year-round destination. If you’re looking to plan your own adventure through the Rockies, please contact me to find out more. I know we will definitely return!