Arctic Experience
The very fact that there isn’t a set itinerary makes you realise how special going to the Arctic really is. Nothing is guaranteed, not the weather, nor the wildlife, or even the ice pack, so a true expedition cruise in every sense. During the summer months, this is the land of the midnight sun, 24-hour daylight must be seen to be believed and it is truly amazing. Landing at midnight into Longyearbyen to bright daylight set the tone of this trip to be one with a difference!
Upon boarding the ship, there is of course a buzz of excitement, but also an air of nervousness, people are anxious as to whether they are going to be lucky enough to catch a sighting of at least one polar bear. The Arctic is wild and vast, polar bears roam the land with no fixed abode and the fear that we may not spot one is great. Sailing out of Longyearbyen, we say farewell to civilisation, taking in the stunning scenery. After a few hours, we get our first taste of riding out in the smaller zodiac boats (these typically hold about 10 people, like a high-speed dinghy) which means you can go out exploring on the sea, getting in closer to the fjords and the glaciers. Zipping around in these small vessels just surrounded by stunning scenery was incredible.
We were exceptionally lucky, we were only on day two of our ten-day trip, when we spotted our first polar bear. This guy was taking a stroll on a pebbled beach opposite the beautiful area of Magdalene fjord. We got about an hour with this amazing creature taking it in turns to ‘circle robin’ a platoon of 8 zodiac ships about 100 metres back from the shore. During the third day, this is when we really sat back and took stock of exactly where we were, at the very top of the world, out on deck sailing and breaking through the pack edge (masses of floating ice). Silence, other than the crunching of ice below the ship, as we pushed our way through the pack ice, birds flying overhead, making a merry dance above us. We saw seals sitting on the ice, then several hours in we make the most amazing discovery, a polar bear on a kill (poor seal). There are no words that can describe just how amazing this really was. All passengers and crew out on deck in happy silence watching this incredible creature, we were there about 3 hours taking in this once in a lifetime opportunity, such a surreal experience.
After several days of not setting foot on land (too many polar bear sightings made this impossible to land safely, not a bad complaint on a polar bear trip!) finally we got to anchor down at Kraemerpynten, the easternmost spit of land in Svalbard. Our expedition leaders were sent out first with their rifles to patrol the area, they then set up a tightly controlled safe zone for us, as we followed in the zodiacs some time later. Being able to say you have stood in the Arctic with just ice and sea for miles and miles is quite something else. Through the days that followed, the journey is adapted depending on the fog, and sea conditions, but we had plenty of opportunity for more wildlife spotting, walruses, many varieties of seals, Fin whales, as well as lots of birds such as Black Guillemots and Kittewakes.
Coming back down the other side of Svalbard the pack ice begins to disappear and instead there is a mix of ice and land with much more lush vegetation. Over the sailing we saw plenty more walruses ashore, reindeer, several arctic foxes and quite a rarity, puffins. Amongst all the natural wonders of this trip there was plenty of good food and entertainment on board, including live music and informative lectures on our surroundings. We had an incredible BBQ out on deck one evening sitting out amongst the glaciers. I even completed the Polar Plunge (and yes it was cold although not as bad as you may think!)
By the time it came to disembark, we had seen fourteen polar bears, so by all standards a very successful trip, we really couldn’t have asked for more as at least seven of these sightings were in close proximity. The pictures I have help to paint the scene, but they really don’t do the Arctic, and my memories of such a special trip, justice.
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