Camino Frances St Jean Pied de Port to Estella 130km

Kathy O`Sullivan 17 December 2018
“The Camino calls you to contemplate, to be amazed, to welcome, to interiorize, to stop, to be quiet, to listen to, to admire, to bless…nature, our companions on the journey and ourselves”

This Camino incapsulates all the above and more. This would my first time taking on this section and I was accompanied by an amazing group of walkers as I do every year when I take on different sections of the Way. We flew into Biarritz and transferred to St Jean de Pied where we spent our first night. St Jean is the traditional starting point of the Camino de Santiago. We arrived in the afternoon on the 20th September and spent the rest of the day strolling through this lovely quaint town, having a welcome drink and getting to know each other. The atmosphere is nervous excitement as this is the starting point for most pilgrims, some will go on to walk the full Camino to Santiago de Compostela, others are cycling the way and then there is others like us who are taking it on section by section. A visit to the Pilgrim office is a must for all walkers as they give an update on weather and route for the following day crossing the Pyrenees.

First day walk from St Jean de Pied to Roncesvalles 26km Napoléon Route (8 hours):

This day was one of the most demanding walks of this section especially the first three hours, a steep uphill walk which got the heartrate going and legs pumping but boy are you rewarded with the most spectacular scenery. The weather was just perfect as we got higher the mist over the mountain came and went. We got lucky at the Statue de La Vierge where the clouds and mist had just lifted to show beautiful blue skies and stunning views over the Pyrenees. Walking through this wonderful vista, horses roam freely, and the cow bells are the only sound breaking the wonderful peaceful silence. This has got to be one of the most scenic days I have spent on the Camino.

Day 2 Walking Roncesvalles to Zubiri 22km:

Today’s walk was easier through stunning countryside, woodlands and passing through charming little towns but still walking uphill. Arriving into Zubiri passing the cross bridge where pilgrims are soaking their tired feet in the river. Here we decided to tap each other on the back, two days down and everyone is good condition so a few cerveza and some tasty tapas to celebrate.

Day 3 Walking Zubiri to Pamplona 21km:

Another beautiful day, blue skies and very comfortable walking. Passing through Oakwood’s, riverside wood paths, village of Zabaldika where we took a little detour to visit San Esteban Church which has the oldest church bell in Narravo and had the opportunity to ring this wonderful old bell. The trek today gave more a taste of the old medieval pilgrimage route. Today’s walk finished in the old historical heart of Pamplona, city famous for Running of the Bulls.

Day 4 Pamplona to Puente de la Reina:

We can breathe a sigh of relief as we are leaving the city and back into the countryside. Gravelled tracks today surrounded by crop fields and acres of sunflowers (a week too late to get the sunflowers in all their glory) and winelands. A stop in Zariquieg to refuel before the steep uphill walk to Alto el Perdon where reaching the peak is one of today’s highlights. Downhill is slow and rocky and a little tough on the legs and ankles but once down the walking is comfortably through the lovely countryside before reaching the quaint the little town of Puente de la Reina.

Day 5 Puente de la Reina to Estella:

Our last day walking and again the sun came out to play. The Way just kept giving today with stunning countryside tracks, passing through the village of Cirauqui was one of the highlights of the day. Afternoon was a long gravel track into Estella where we finished our Way.

We had an overnight in Estella before transferring to Bilbao for a day free to explore this wonderful city that I instantly fell in love with. Some of us visited the Guggenheim Museum which was simply amazing, others took the funicular ride and other browsed the wonderful shops finishing up with a last meal in a wonderful restaurant where we toasted a Buen Camino.

I am honoured to have shared the Camino with a wonderful group of people who embraced the Camino Family spirit. Friendships were made, stories were told, tears were shed, many many laughs were had.

Quote from Rebecca “Just back from our third trip along the Camino with Kathy, while this section is challenging initially and not for the fainthearted, however you are rewarded with scenery beyond belief on every turn of the path. The beautiful hotel accommodation and exquisite dinners at night with our new friends were a very welcome reward after a day walking. We have made memories and friends for life.”

Quote from Ted “From the first handshakes and hugs at the airport, to the arduous climb up to 5,000 above sea level on the first day, to the thirst quenching drinks after finishing each day, to the tapas experiences, to the endless laughs and fun, to the more serious chats, to the quiet moments and thoughts walking alone, to the exhilaration of finishing the five days together, to the Bilbao visit, to the great planning and organising every detail, to the parting hugs at the airport, It ticked all the boxes as being the best trip “